Behind the Bench: The Gemma Collection
The Gemma Ring is more than a piece of jewelry to us - it’s a quiet design evolution over a decade in the making. For Elaine B Jewelry, this minimalist gold band represents years of creative exploration, material experimentation, and a unique approach to sculptural design. In this Behind the Bench, we're taking a closer look at the origins of the Gemma Collection, from its earliest prototypes to its 2025 revival.
xo Elaine
Where It All Began: Drawing in Wire
Elaine's journey with the Gemma concept started in 2010 with a simple but powerful idea: the “invisible diamond.” It was a study in geometry, form, and space - a way to honor the brilliance of a gemstone by outlining it, rather than filling it.
“The earliest versions were made with wire,” says Elaine. “I was using silver and brass to draw shapes in the air, creating open, airy sculptures that took up space without weight.” These were one-of-a-kind experiments: hand-bent and soldered wire forms that hinted at the outline of a diamond or gemstone, but left the interior open. Sometimes a pearl or small gem was added to the center, but often the design spoke for itself.
The result was intuitive geometry. Shapes that felt organic yet precise, all constructed by hand. These were wearable sculptures, and their graphic quality made them unlike anything else on the market.
The first iteration of designs from Elaine B Jewelry's Gemma Collection over the years.
From One-of-a-Kind to Collection
By 2015, the idea had really evolved. As you can see below, studio photos from this era show Elaine and Lauren, in the original Charlottesville workspace, a cozy, apartment converted into a studio full of creativity and thrifted furniture . A spray-painted straw sculpture by Elaine hung in the background, next to repurposed wood art from a previous Urban Outfitters display. These surroundings totally fit for jewelry designs blending structure and softness.
Snapshots from Elaine's early studio in Charlottesville, Virginia.
Around this time, a new chapter began: turning the wireframe designs into a scalable collection. The Prisma Collection was born. This was Elaine B Jewelry’s first collection created using CAD and 3D printing, cast into sterling silver and later plated in 18k gold vermeil. The invisible gems became more refined, structured, and reproducible - but still kept their airy, architectural spirit.
Designs from the Prisma Collection, another early iteration of the Gemma concept, by Elaine B Jewelry.
A New Inspiration for Custom Projects
Over the years, the Gemma design language has also sparked countless custom creations at Elaine B Jewelry. We love when Gemma is referenced as a jumping-off point for custom engagement rings, anniversary gifts, or symbolic heirlooms. Some opt to fill the open frame with a unique gemstone, while others reinterpret the geometric silhouette in different scales or metal finishes. These custom projects celebrate the same spirit of intention and individuality that defines Gemma - each one becoming a new take on the original.
For example, Elaine and Heather had worked on a custom project for one of our clients creating a unique prisma around an emerald gemstone. From here, they were more inspired to integrate the gem frame around the stone and designed the Poolside Prisma Ring.
See the images below for a few of our favorite client collaborations inspired by Gemma!
A few of the custom projects inspired by the Gemma concept by Elaine B Jewelry.
The Full Sparkle: Introducing Gemma
The third evolution was the Gemma Collection. Co-designed by Elaine and Senior Jewelry Designer, Heather, Gemma was the culmination of years of aesthetic exploration and technical development.
“The idea behind Gemma was to bring the sculptural design even closer to the look of real gemstone cuts,” Elaine shares. “We created outlines that referenced actual cuts like emeralds, marquise, kite, hexagon, and round - but made entirely in gold.”
The collection was crafted in 14k yellow gold only. This was a nod to timelessness and durability. The Gemma Collection featured rings, necklaces, and earrings that honored traditional gemstone silhouettes through minimalist, hand-finished frames. The collection launched as a bold, geometric alternative to traditional fine jewelry.
“We continued to reference our (then) Prisma Collection, and wanted to refresh it,” Heather said. “I think as jewelers and being so familiar with the gem shapes, we were really intrigued/inspired by the gold silhouettes of each gem. For us, it was so cool that we got to build CADs for each gem individually, so they are all 3D printed and cast individually, no molds are used. The initial response from customers was wanting to see a gemstone inside of the 'gold framed gem'.”
While the full Gemma Collection was retired in 2024, its signature ring never stopped resonating with customers. Our team continued to love and wear Gemma, even buying out the remaining of our discontinued pieces.
Elaine B. Jewelry's Gemma Collection featuring necklaces, earrings, and rings.
The Return of the Gemma Ring
In 2025, Elaine B Jewelry brought the Gemma Ring back - this time with a new purpose. After hearing from clients who had been using it as a placeholder ring for engagements and proposals, the team saw an opportunity.
One of our team members even discovered a post going viral featuring our Gemma Ring! We were so excited about the idea of bringing it back in a new way.
“We realized it was perfect for that in-between moment - before the final ring is chosen or made,” says Elaine. “It’s beautiful and symbolic, but not overly precious. It can represent the excitement of a proposal, travel well, or simply act as a stylish everyday ring.”
Gemma is for Everyone
The Gemma Ring is the perfect placeholder for modern love. Whether you're planning a surprise proposal or swapping your diamond for adventure days, the 14k gold Gemma Ring is a sculptural tribute to traditional gem cuts - elegant, meaningful, and made for the journey.
Whether you’re an adventurer, a romantic, or a minimalist at heart, the Gemma Ring honors your story - shaped in gold, built to last, and full of possibilities.
Shop Gemma Rings here.
Shop All Collections here.
View the Custom Gallery here.