Materials and Ethos
Jewelry Materials and Terminology
Metals
Metal is the foundation of our jewelry. Most of what we use starts out as wire, tubing, sheet metal, chain or cast components and is hand fabricated in our Detroit studio. Our silver and gold are primarily recycled material. We maintain relationships with refineries, casters, miners, stone cutters and companies that run transparent supply chains as much as possible.
Sterling Silver
92.50% pure silver, stamped with 925.
Can tarnish but is easily cleaned.
Oxidized Silver
A patina is applied over sterling silver to give it a dark or antique look. It may wear off over time.
18k Vermeil (ver-may)
18k yellow gold plated over sterling silver 1 micron thick. Does not wear down like typical gold plated jewelry.
14k Gold
58.3% pure gold, 41.7% other alloys. Recycled material / Extremely durable.
18k Gold
75% pure gold, 25% other alloys. Recycled material / Brighter in color.
Platinum
One of the least reactive and rarest metals. We only offer this material in custom projects.
Damascus Steel
Hand forged, layered steel. This material is made by Smithshop in Detroit.
Gemstones
Lab Grown Diamonds
Diamonds created in a controlled lab setting, mimicking the natural process. They share identical properties with natural diamonds but are synthesized using carbon, high pressure and temperature. Our lab diamonds are all created in the US.
Salt and Pepper Diamonds
Naturally occurring diamonds that embrace the unique characteristics that come from inclusions and carbon. The texture in the stones can resemble grains of salt and pepper. These stones can be transparent or opaque. Every diamond is unique.
Recycled Diamonds
Naturally occurring diamonds, previously set in jewelry then removed, and re-introduced into the supply chain for resale. Using recycled diamonds reduces the jewelry industry’s reliance on environmentally damaging mining practices.
Natural Diamonds
Naturally occurring diamonds, VS quality and F color or better unless specified. These diamonds are sourced from reputable suppliers and supply chains.
Heirloom Diamonds
Heirloom diamonds are diamonds that have been passed down through generations within a family. Because these diamonds often carry stories and memories of the previous generations, we work with clients to incorporate them into custom projects.
Colored Diamonds
Natural diamonds that have undergone treatments to alter their color. These treatments are typically applied to diamonds to create unique and vibrant colors. They are perfect for pavé when softer gemstones would not be suitable.
All About Sapphires
Glossary of Terms
Metal
- Sterling Silver (SS)
- Oxidized Silver (OX)
- 14k Goldfill (14k GF)
- 18k Vermeil (18k V)
- 14k Yellow Gold (14ky), 14k Rose Gold (14kr), 14k White Gold(14kw)
- 18k Yellow Gold (18ky) - usually custom only
- Platinum - usually custom only
- Damascus Steel - Rings made by Smithshop for EBJ
💡Tip: Solid gold can be referenced as a fraction
- Solid gold is 24 karat or 24/24
- 14k gold is 14/24 or 58.3%
- 18k gold is 18/24 or 75%
Stones
Weight of the stones:
- Carat weight
ct (single stone) ctw (multiple stones)
Common cuts:
- Round
- Emerald (rectangle with cut corners)
- Princess (square)
- Oval
- Pear
- Marquise
- Baguette
- Trillion
- Kite
Common terms:
- Brilliant: Today, diamonds are cut with the purpose of bringing out brilliance and luster from a diamond. This cut is identified by the placement of numerous facets (flat surfaces) on a diamond causing light to reflect, refract and disperse optimally. The Round Brilliant diamond shape has 57 facets comprising 33 facets on the crown and 25 on the pavilion.
*Note: Not all round diamonds are brilliant cuts. Other shapes can be brilliant cut like a pear brilliant cut diamond.
- Rose Cut: Type of diamond cut that originated in the 16th century. It is named for its resemblance to the petals of a rose, with a flat bottom and a domed top that tapers to a point.
- Portrait Cut: Has a flat, elongated shape, and typically sits on a large table. It's a shallow and step-cut design that has a low profile. A diamond with a portrait cut is thin and delicate, resembling a flat piece of glass.
Finish
- Matte
- Polished
Setting Styles/Vocabulary
- Prong Setting
- Bezel Setting
- Pavé Setting
- Flush Set
Rings
Band widths are measured in millimeters
Style and texture:
- Round
- Flat
- Peak
- Hammered
- Multi Faceted
Necklace
Chain Type
- Reference Forever Linked chains
Chain Length
- 16”, 18”, 20”, 22” etc
- Adjustable
Clasp Type
- Lobster Claw
- Handmade Clasp
Earrings
- Stud
- Drop
- Hoop
- Hook
- Threader
Texture:
- Smooth
- Hammered
- Rough
Metal FAQ
- Most of the Jewelry Nickel Free: exceptions: white gold & matte plating on our 18k vermeil jewelry (Calligraphy)
- All of our white gold is rhodium plated giving it a bright white look.
- All of our rings are made from recycled gold.
Jewelry Care
- Wear your jewelry often.
- Store your jewelry in the box that it came in or a jewelry box with segmented compartments.
- Hang necklaces to avoid tangling.
- Use the polishing cloth to shine your jewelry and prevent tarnish.
- Use EBJ’s foaming cleaner and brush to clean behind stones and hard to reach places.
- Customers are able to bring their Elaine B Jewelry pieces in for cleaning free of charge.